Yes - What Would James Joyce Do? Whenever things of an Irish nature crop up on me (and little is more Irish than St Patrick’s Day) I ask myself that question. And if, this year, Ireland’s late great master of literature returned to Earth in the Niagara area for the St Paddy’s Day festivities, I can tell you what I think he’d do.
First of all he would whinge about being used as a framing device for a web article. “And about Naomh Padraig of all t’ings,” he’d moan in stage-Irish. Second, he’d enlighten me as to what little we actually know about Naomh, er, St Patrick. Third, he’d make sure he’d be able to make it to Niagara-on-the-Lake for supper on Monday and make reservations for a wine tour Monday afternoon. Then he’d arrange to sneak off to Buffalo for the big parade Sunday afternoon.
St Patrick was born a Roman Briton, kidnapped by Irish raiders, made a slave who would spend several years in Ireland before returning home, joining the church, working his way up the ladder of hierarchy and going back to Ireland to do missionary work. All this in the fifth century. Some twelve centuries later he came to hold an important place in the assemblage of Roman Catholic saints. The first civic celebration of his day in what became the United States was in 1737, in Boston.
The biggest St Patrick’s Day parade near Niagara is Buffalo’s. The city’s first was in 1811. 2008’s is on Sunday March 16 - it’s always on the Sunday closest to St Patrick’s Day. It starts at 2 pm, at Niagara Square in downtown Buffalo and proceeds along Delaware Avenue to North Street. There are face-painting booths along the route and the parades full of bagpipers, Irish dancers, marching bands, marching police officers and firefighters, floats galore and even historical re-enactors.
There are parties, public and private, after the parade and thousands of kilograms of cabbage and corned beef to be eaten. It’s frequently pointed out that while you don’t have to Irish (or even Irish-American or Irish-Canadian) to enjoy the St Patrick’s Day parades, you may just find yourself Irish for the day.
Alright for Buffalo, then I mumbled to Mr. Joyce, but why a wine tour? He suggested it would be a hoot. Spring is creeking and crackling through the Niagara region, he said, and was moderately dumbfounded he had to explain to me that the region produces some of the world’s finest wines, if awards, citations, prizes and medals are anything to go by. And, he added, you’ll be able to impress your friends with your worldly edginess.
Wine tours can, of course, be self-guided. Just remember you’ll likely be consuming some of the wine, not just admiring the bottles and labels, so arrange to have a designated driver among your touring pals. Tours can be professionally conducted affairs to be had for a price - often a very reasonable price. They can also be extremely elaborate and corporation-friendly. In between, as an example, is the Niagara-on-the-Lake Winery Tour offered by Niagara Getaways.
This tour includes daily operations, with visits to three award-winning wineries and tastings at all three and a very extensive site-tour of one. Niagara Getaways has a range ot tours available. Biking-and-Wine tours, Dinner-and-Wine tours, and many more. Check out their web site at www.niagaragetaways.com
Now how James learned about Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Irish Harp Pub is a mystery, but I suspect he has been trolling the internet. The Irish Harp is offering, on Monday, St Paddy’s Day proper, from midday to midnight, music and food (JJ recommends the Irish stew and roast potatoes), prizes and giveaways. The Irish-as-shamrocks band Ceol Cara will be taking the stage at 9 pm. There’ll be a great deal of singing and dancing.
But what of the rest of Niagara I asked him? Well, if Niagara Falls is your destination, then Doogall's (a right Irish name) is the place for entertainment all weekend long. The Kilt and Clover in Port Dalhousie stakes claim to the North (of St.Catharines) with bonnie music while Patrick Sheehan's and the Feathery Pub assemble the tartan clad masses for riotous gatherings in St.Catharines with a touch of the Ol' Emerald and the mountains dew.
When you join us in Niagara for time of your life, just ask around if anyone’s spotted your green beer; it’s what James Joyce would do.
